Bare/Rife Device Pics

Bill Cheb builds really nice output tubes for the Bare-Rife device (or Bare-Rife Generator, Rife-Bare Frequency Generator, or whatever you want to call these things!). You can email Bill directly by clicking here. You can get a copy of his current catalog in Adobe Acrobat PDF-file format by clicking here. If you don't already have it you will need to download and install Adobe Acrobat Reader to view this file. And sorry, I am not your computer support guy, I won't help you get Acrobat Reader installed and running on your machine.

Please don't steal these pics and say they are yours. I didn't do that to you. I eventually got so tired of people stealing my work that I keep most of it to myself now.

Below are some pics of my initial Bare-Rife device. Note that it's undergoing development and may not look like this as of the moment you see these pics.

First round of pics - June 1998

All laid out, waiting on cables.

Heft Frequency Generator, 12v DC power supply and modified Uniden 510XL CB.

Close-up of the modified CB. Sorry for the glare, still getting used to the camera.

Antenna/Output tuner and balun.

Business end: Output tube #1, a Phanotron.

Business end: Output tube #2, a plain-gas bubble tube, no internal electrodes. Either this tube or the Phanotron is used, not both at the same time.

The future: Roll-yer-own linear amplifier, the AN762 kit as received. Yikes.

Close-up of the Phanotron showing the back of the 45 degree anode.

Close-up of the Phanotron showing the front of the 45 degree anode.

Close-up of the frequency generator, 12v DC power supply, and modified CB microphone.

The front of the black-face Palomar 225 watt linear amplifier.

Close up of the antenna tuner and balun.

Palomar linear amp, fans and wiring harness to feed them.

Palomar guts.

Balun guts.

The moment we were working toward. Phanotron running! 700 cycles.

Bubble tube at 1550. Bubble full of plasma. Can just see the "pearls" on the positive (right) end of the tube.

Bubble tube at 880. The "eggbeater" effect. Solid plasma wave looping around inside the bubble. Pearls doing the same at the end.

Bubble tube "half full". Again, nice solid wave though pic is a bit overexposed.

Power supply showing no current! The left meter showing less than 0 amps. Impossible... As the SWR pic below indicates, there are 100 watts of 12v DC at the tuner! The meter in the power supply was replaced under warranty by Astron.

Positive end of the bubble tube. Trying to show "string of pearls" effect.

Mike programming the Heft FG. It's just a very simple computer.

SWR of 1.4 while running at 9.4 cycles. Proving it can run.

Project desk where things are born. Can you say "mess"?!

Second round of pics - Aug 1998

New Randazzo tube and coils with Phanotron and 12" ruler for scale. Note this is before the coils are inserted in 9ga teflon tubing, and the 17" braid strap soldered on to connect to balun.

Cheb bubble tube and coils. Sitting in it's cage. Note teflon tubing on coils to insulate from glass tube. Really helps keep tube cool and doesn't seem to affect performance at all.

Randazzo tube running. Color in center of tube looks pretty accurate -- purple fog in center. What doesn't show is how violet/mauve the parts in the thin sections of the tube are; no center "rope" like the Cheb bubble tube produces.

Third round of pics - Jan 1999

Project desk now. More parts, more projects! Bill, as usual, oversees. 2 meter handheld is monitoring local repeater chatter. Phone is, well, the phone! Project board and little circuit are Tom 'Mike' Miller's variable frequency 555 chip Bioelectrifier in process. One for use, one to play with.

Scope pics: Eico front panel #1,Eico front panel #2, Heathkit front panel.

Tube wrap tests - Three full spirals ending in a loop. One of Jim Bare's recommendations from the manual. Tube is 80/20 Randazzo bubble, wrap is Radio Shack 1555 ground braid, currently discontinued. Pic shows three full spirals spaced about evenly. Other end of tube was the same only neater. Ideally spirals would be even, but I took this after the run and when things cooled back down they sagged a bit. Works OK!

Tube wrap tests - One full spiral ending in a loop. One of Jim Bare's recommendations from the manual. Equipment is same as in pic just above except for the wrapping. This ran well, very comparable to three spirals but slightly different in where SWR was lowest in terms of frequency. This wrap also made tube get much hotter, can now see some burn marks inside tube where braid came in from balun (toward end of tube in this pic). Given past experience these will slowly go away in future runs as electrodes absorb impurities.

Tube wrap tests - No spirals, one loop. Experimenting with minimal wrapping after reading of some others on the list. Equipment is same as in just previous pics, in fact these pics and runs were made one after another after another to ensure conditions would be thes same for comparison purposes. This was NOT a success! See next pic. Also, tube was very hard to light in this configuration.

Tube wrap tests - Carnage from one loop. Science can be this way sometimes... This is what was left of the electrician's tape after 15 minutes of running with one full loop. Tape started to melt, wrapping started to spread/uncoil, sparks, tiny flames, excitement! SWR would jump when it sparked, no surprise there. So being chicken (and not yet having found out how much I might owe Uncle Sam this year) I hit the power switch and shut 'er down. Damage is cosmetic only, Formula 409 has not budged this mess so have to try carb cleaner I guess!

After the great meltdown show above, I also tried firing from "one loop" off the positive side of the balun to the electrode on the other end, ala Don Tunney's old configuration. SWRs were higher and power was lower in this configuration, but it could just be my cable lengths. For this set of runs cables were 18 inches RG-8U from CB to amp, and 24 inches RG-8X from amp to tuner. Tuner to balun is double-male direct connect, and Radio Shack 1555 braid pieces shown in pics above are 36 inches long on both sides. They were cut for three spiral config to give me a good layout and were not shortened for wraps using less cable; the excess was just allowed to lay there. Some trimming might give better results.

Location of R93 in Uniden 510XL. As per Jim Bare's instructions, this resistor must be cut. This shows the location, albeit blurred. R93 is the resistor to the inside of the CB at this location.

Location of R93 in Uniden 510XL, blown up. Very blurred, but I tried. Best this camera will do.

Hangar and teflon coils by themselves. Five spirals for large tube, six spirals for small, one for Cheb tube (larger) and one for Randazzo tube (smaller). Obviously there is another one just like it for each tube. Leads are 18 inches of Radio Shack 1555 braid strap with eyelets soldered on ends.

Spirals as above with one 3 inch long copper sleeve. Sleeve is obviously for larger Cheb tube. Note eyelet spread open and soldered on end of sleeve. This is done with a propane torch as it takes a lot of heat to solder to a copper tube! The eyelets go to the inside of the tube when these are installed.

Same as above with sleeve rotated so you can see the end and size. That's a single wrap of typing paper inside, used to slightly insulate the sleeve from the tube and to provide a bit more capacitance at the tube.

Cheb h-gas bubble tube with 1-1/8 inch copper sleeves as supplied and 22 ga copper wire wrap. This REALLY makes the tube easier to light. The connecting cables are 18 inches of Radio Shack 'monster cable' as suggested by Turf, with eyelets on each end of the cable. The screws are obviously too long! I have shorter ones but they didn't make it into the picture. Note that 22 ga wire is connected to one side (preferably the hot side of the balun but you might have to try both sides to see which is better for your rig) and that it DOES NOT TOUCH THE OTHER SLEEVE. If the 22 ga copper wire touches both sides you short out yor amp, which will promptly blow. Expensive mistake. Instead, the 22 ga wire is looped into a full circle, touching itself, on the far end of the tube about 1 inch from the far-side sleeve.

Close-up of 22 ga copper wire wrap in above pic on 'hot' side. This is the side that's connected to the sleeve/cable juncture, can be as simple as between two washers on the bolt. For more permanent, solder it to a washer.

Close-up of 22 ga copper wire wrap in above pic on 'cold' side. This is the side that IS NOT CONNECTED connected to the col-side sleeve. As indicated above, just terminate it by looping it under itself about 1 inch from the sleeve so it stays there and DOESN'T GET LOOSE!!! As mentioned above, if the 22 ga wire touches both sleeves at the same time, or comes within about 0.020 inch of one side while connected to the other side, it will SHORT AND BLOW YOUR AMP. Hope I've made it clear by now that this is NOT a desireable ocurrence!

Text and images Copyright 1998-1999 Laurence D. Hammer. All Rights Reserved.